7/26 We left our one-night-stand-hotel by taxi for the train station after breakfast. As this was our fourth venture by rail, we were beginning to understand the system. This train station consisted of about a dozen numbered platforms. A large reader board in the waiting area lists the arrival and departure of trains by train number and where they're from or going to - not unlike in an airport. The difference here is that they don't post the platform number until just before the train arrives - typically 10-15 minutes. AND the trains depart quite punctually - so you really need to be onboard by departure time. This leads to a sudden surge of people and baggage to the appropriate platform as soon as it is posted. This surge is then met by the counter surge of people exiting the train. But you not only need to get to the train, if you have reserve seats - as we have, you have to get to the proper car - which are also numbered. Amidst this chaos everyone seems to get where they're going - at least we did! Once on the train you stow luggage wherever you can find space in the racks provided - or in the overhead rack if your baggage is small enough. Find your seats, sit and relax - trains here are comfortable! Each has a pull down tray - or a small table if the seats are facing each other. Soon after departure attendants walk the aisles offering newspapers (none in English) and shortly after, a beverage service. We spent the three hour ride to Venice snoozing, reading, and looking over the guidebook for first impressions, background info, and tentative destinations to visit.
After disembarking the train, we proceeded to the ACTV Vaporetto water-bus, deciphered the postings and after purchasing tickets, boarded City center route 1 which runs along the Grand Canal that winds through the center of the city. There are no cars in Venice, not even bicycles - everything is accessed by boat or foot. This means you find the closest landing to your lodgings and then venture the rest of the way on foot.
The second stage of our introduction to Venice began with the passage from the boat landing toward our hotel. Maybe four feet across, we navigated this narrow route, bags in tow, trying to politely avoid collisions with those proceeding toward the dock. Venice is a city that doesn't have to cater to vehicles, and while most walkways were much wider - some are even narrower! - giving the city a maze-like appeal where close passageways can open suddenly to piazzas large and small.
at last... Venice - the city of dreams...
what ... no cars ... awesome!
Once checked in to our rooms in the Hotel Flora - a converted home complete with a small inner garden, it was time to check out again - the city that is. We spent the next six hours strolling - starting with the historic city center - Piazza San Marco, complete with: the intricately imposing byzantine Basilica San Marcos - named after the cities patron saint who is interred somewhere within; The Doges Palace - the official residence of the 'doges' who ruled venice for 1100 years; the Torre dell' Orologio - a clock tower that includes a clock face that shows the hour, zodiac sign and moon phase, framed by a display of the hour and minute to the nearest 5 interval, and crowned with bronze figures that move to strike a large bell to mark the hour; the Camnpanile - a nearly 100 meter bell tower; and the Procuratie Veche and Nouve, administrative buildings dating back to the 15th century. Everything a wealthy republic based on trading throughout the known world would need to impress visiting representative and perhaps itself. From the piazza packed, PACKED with tourists like ourselves, we strolled the waterfront enjoying the views of water front buildings, bridges over canals, imposing cathedrals across the water. The further we walked away from the piazza the smaller the crowds became until we were walking unhindered and at times unaccompanied along the 'calle' (street). Our wanderings included a stop in a church dedicated to St John the Baptist complete with a relic of his clavicle on display - just one of the many relics housed in Venice which include the girdle (belt) of Mary, a Nail from the True Cross, the skull of St. John, a thorn from Christ's crown, and many more - relics were big business in medieval times - one way to put your town and/or church on the pilgrimage map! When hunger finally came on, we settled to eat at a convenient sidewalk cafe and enjoyed a typical three-course Italian meal including vegetables, pasta and main dish. Joe's 'scallopeni' (scallops he thought) turned out to be a pork dish - the reward of trying dishes in another language!
spectacular ...
joining the throng of spectators ...
ah... we are here in Venice - for real...
gazing upon the waters ...
this is not a scene in a movie ... I am really here ...
even the birds are friendly ... unbelievable!
Vivaldi was baptized here...St. John's the Baptist
Vivaldi - great composer!
St. John the Baptist Church - main altar!
It was twilight by the time we decided to return to our hotel via the Piazza San Marco - which by this hour was mostly emptied of its earlier crowds. On a whim we went over to the Campanile to price a ride in the elevator to the top - no public stairway in this tower. The price was right - 6 euros, and more importantly, there were NO lines at this hour, so up we went. As we were enjoying the views of the city and skyline settling into dusk, the figures on the Torre dell' Orologio, now below us, struck the hour with their hammers. Suddenly, without warning, a HUGE bell that we hadn't noticed hanging just over our heads answered with several minutes of penetrating rings. Sweeping back and forth, the sound of the bell - almost a physical force by its sheer proximity, set body and soul into vibration. Serge and Joe moved to stand directly below the bell that swung overhead just out of reach - drawn to maximize the sound effect while not unaware of the potential disaster should the several hundred year old bell be somehow shaken loose from its obviously aged moorings. The bell contain continued to toll - not bothering to mark the nine o'clock hour, but just ringing on and on, perhaps marking the departure of the throng for the day. When it finally stopped, and harmonics died away, we left the terrace of the tower and reboarding the lift, rode down, still vibrating with awe…
above the front door of the famous St. Mark's church ...
sphinx ... a symbol of St. Mark
the bell tolls ... time to heed to Hotel Flora ....
I'm enjoying the blog titles equally as much as the blogs themselves. I try to guess what each might mean. I'm most often way off! Looking forward to the next! Keep enjoying this wonderful adventure! xoxo
ReplyDelete