7/30 Saturday! - meaning Mamer and Merlines do not have to go into work and so it's time for a Road Trip! While originally planning to race to Berlin for the day by train, we happily altered our plans to visit some sights outside Prague. Right after breakfast we filled the car (Joe was thankful his long legs ensured him a front seat) and drove out of the city towards Karlstein - Charle's IV's " Castle of the Holy Grail and The Spiritual Heart of Europe." The castle was built a days ride from Prague on a steep bluff, accessible by a single road and surrounded by higher hills that make it invisible from the countryside. It's main purpose was to house the most valuable treasures in the kingdom - the imperial sacred insignia - which authenticated the holder as the ruler of the Holy Roman Empire and confirmed him as God's representative on earth. The sacred insignia included many items passed on and added to over many centuries. including the royal crown, scepter and golden orb; special coronation and ceremonial garments; the Holy Spear - or Spear of Destiny which housed a nail from the cross; a sword passed on from Charles the Great who some belief received it from the Archangel Gabriel; and many other assorted treasures and relics.
Karsltein castle ... no pictures allowed inside ...
It took about an hour and a half drive in a rare summer rain shower to reach the parking lot. We pulled out the umbrellas and choosing not to take a horse drawn 'taxi,' began the three kilometer walk up to the castle. The castle remained invisible until we entered the narrow cobblestone road that followed a ravine lined with what may once have been small medieval cottages but had since become a series of gift shops, cafes and restaurants. Once at the castle we purchased tickets for a tour in English through the Nicolaus and Marianne Towers and the Emperor's Palace. It was an inside look at the life of monarchs in the relative simplicity of a fortified rural-retreat.
The little village at the foot of the castle ...
fueling up for more energy - midway on our climb up to Karlstein castle ...
The princess that wasn't meant to be ...
treasured bell of the castle ...
Mamer, Merlines and Matthew - descent from Karlstein castle ....
After the tour we returned back down the cobblestone way, still in the rain, purchased some snacks to eat in the car, and got back on the road for a two hour journey to the town of Kutna Hora, site of St. Barbara - a classic gothic cathedral, and near to the Sedlec Ossuary which is also known as "The Bone Church." Kutna Hora was once the silver capital of Czech state where the coin of the realm was struck. The cathedral was built as an expression of the wealth and ambitions of the townspeople, even before the area had been assigned a bishop that in other circumstances might have initiated such a massive project. Instead, the locals were competing with cathedrals and churches built in nearby towns. It began in 1384 and was competed until the mid 16th century. It also underwent many renovations over the years, including the breathtaking stained class windows from the turn of the 20th century - which explains their 'modernistic' look. The immense structure is a textbook of gothic architecture, encircled with flying buttresses and spires that seem to dissolve heavenward, and an inner space that soars skyward bathed in light through the towering stained glass windows that replace the more solid walls of Romanesque basilica.
the gothic Santa Barbara cathedral ...
front altar of Santa Barbara ...
one of the many beautiful stained glass windows ...
such a lovely creation of humankind ...
amazing to think this intricate work was done by hand ...
After straining our necks to appreciate the many fine details, it was time to jump back in the car if we hoped to view the infamous "bone church" a few kilometers away. We arrived one minute before closing, but the attendant - taking mercy on our damp condition and somehow taking perceiving our 'this is our only last chance to view this wonder' status, let us in to marvel at this setting could-be-perfect-setting for Tales from the Crypt. We descended the stairs into the Ossuary crypt below the chapel where the skulls and bones of thousands decorated every available space - with a massive 'chandelier' of skeletal remains dominating the chamber. The empty eyes of skulls made us curious about the many lives they represented and in their deaths they reminded us of how blessed we were to be here, now, celebrating the temporary gift of our own lives…The "Bone Church" is fascinating: depending on how you take it - for others, the bones are a reminder of mortality and for some people, it is simply a beautiful expression of art and remembrance of those who passed away while few commented " it is the living that scares me - the bones don't hurt you". If you wish to learn more about the history of the Sedlec Ossuary you can click this link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sedlec_Ossuary
entrance to the lower chapel of Sedlec Ossuary ...
yes... this chandelier is made out of carefully arranged human bones ...
another artfully arrangement of human bones ....
The warriors of the 15th century ....
We returned to the land of the living and found a local restaurant at which to feed these lives and then drove the two hours back to Prague. Along the route across an expansive rural landscape of forested areas and broad open fields of grass, hay rounds, and unknown grains. Several times deer were spotted in the evening twilight in small groups - by everyone except Joe - much to his chagrin! It was fully dark by the time we arrived home, everyone ready for bed, except sweet Matthew who had fallen fast asleep some time ago...
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